how to rise player mantis at home

How to Raise a Praying Mantis at Home: The Complete Guide to Keeping Nature's Perfect Predator

Here's a question that transforms casual curiosity into one of the most rewarding hobbies in the insect world: what does it take to successfully raise a praying mantis from a tiny nymph smaller than a grain of rice to a magnificent adult capable of turning its head 180 degrees and striking faster than the human eye can follow? The answer reveals why mantis keeping has exploded in popularity over the past decade. Unlike dogs or cats that require years of commitment, or fish that need complex aquarium systems, mantises offer a complete life cycle in just 10 to 12 months—allowing keepers to witness the miracle of metamorphosis, hunting behavior, and reproduction in a single year . Yet despite their low-maintenance reputation, successful mantis keeping requires specific knowledge that separates thriving insects from those that don't survive their first molt.

The praying mantis has captivated humans for millennia, but only recently have we figured out how to keep them successfully in captivity. Modern mantis keeping combines entomological research with practical experience from thousands of hobbyists worldwide. The result is a body of knowledge that allows anyone with basic equipment and genuine interest to raise these remarkable predators. Whether you've found an ootheca in your garden, purchased a nymph from a breeder, or simply want to experience the wonder of watching a mantis grow, this guide covers everything you need to know. For beginners looking to start their journey with healthy specimens, resources like free sample packs can provide the foundation for a successful mantis-keeping experience.

Why Raise a Praying Mantis? The Rewards of Mantis Keeping

Before diving into the practical details, it's worth understanding what makes mantis keeping so special.

Complete Life Cycle Observation
Unlike many pets that stay roughly the same size throughout their lives, mantises undergo dramatic transformation. You'll witness:

Nymphs hatching from oothecae, tinier than you can imagine
Multiple molts where your mantis sheds its skin and emerges larger
Wing development in species that fly
Mating behavior (if you choose to breed)
Ootheca production and the completion of the cycle

Minimal Space Requirements
A mantis enclosure takes up about as much space as a small plant. You can keep one on a desk, shelf, or nightstand without any special infrastructure.

Fascinating Hunting Behavior
Watching a mantis hunt is like having a nature documentary in your home. The stillness, the tracking, the lightning-fast strike—it's captivating every time.

Educational Value
For families with children, mantis keeping offers unparalleled educational opportunities about life cycles, predator-prey relationships, and responsible animal care.

Low Maintenance Compared to Traditional Pets
No walks, no litter boxes, no expensive vet bills. Just regular feeding, misting, and observation.

Getting Started: What You Need Before Bringing Home a Mantis

Preparation is key to successful mantis keeping. Having everything set up before your mantis arrives reduces stress on both you and the insect.

Essential Equipment Checklist

Enclosure: Appropriate size for your mantis's current stage
Substrate: Paper towels or natural substrate
Climbing structures: Branches, mesh, or plants
Misting bottle: Clean, used only for the mantis
Thermometer: To monitor temperature
Hygrometer (optional but recommended): To monitor humidity
Heat source (if needed): Heat mat with thermostat
Feeding tweezers: For offering prey
Food source: Appropriate live insects

Choosing Your Mantis Species

For beginners, some species are much easier than others. Here are excellent starter species:

Chinese mantis (Tenodera sinensis):

Large, hardy, and forgiving of minor mistakes
Eats a wide variety of prey
Readily available from breeders
Good temperament for handling

African mantis (Sphodromantis lineola):

Very hardy and adaptable
Aggressive eater—rarely refuses food
Tolerates a range of temperatures and humidity
Popular in the pet trade

Giant Asian mantis (Hierodula membranacea):

Large and impressive
Hardy and easy to care for
Good beginner species despite size

Ghost mantis (Phyllocrania paradoxa):

Slightly more challenging but still manageable
Amazing camouflage and unique appearance
Smaller size, good for limited space

Species to avoid as a beginner include the delicate Orchid mantis, the massive and demanding Devil's Flower mantis, and any wild-caught specimens that may carry parasites or diseases.

Setting Up the Perfect Mantis Enclosure

The enclosure is your mantis's entire world. Getting it right from the start prevents countless problems later.

Enclosure Size: Height Matters Most

The single most important rule of mantis housing: height is more important than width or depth. Mantises need vertical space to hang upside down for molting. A mantis that can't find adequate hanging space will die during its molt.

Size Guidelines by Age:

L1-L3 nymphs (tiny): Small containers like deli cups (16 oz) with ventilation holes work well. The small space helps them find food.
L4-L6 nymphs (growing): Move to medium enclosures roughly 6x6x9 inches.
L7-adults (full size): Adults need enclosures at least 3 times their body length in height. For a 4-inch mantis, that means 12 inches of height minimum. A 12x12x18 inch enclosure works for most large species.

Enclosure Types

Several enclosure options work well for mantises:

Mesh enclosures:

Excellent ventilation
Great climbing surfaces (mantises grip mesh easily)
Lightweight and easy to clean
Can be harder to maintain humidity
Ideal for most species

Acrylic or plastic enclosures with ventilation:

Better humidity retention
Good visibility
Must have adequate ventilation holes
Good for tropical species needing higher humidity

Glass terrariums:

Excellent visibility
Heavy and less portable
Must have screen top for ventilation
Can overheat easily in sun

DIY options:

Large plastic jars with mesh-modified lids
Critter keepers from pet stores
Modified food containers with added ventilation

Essential Enclosure Features

Every mantis enclosure must have:

Ventilation: Adequate airflow prevents mold and respiratory issues. Mesh tops are ideal.
Climbing surfaces: Mesh, branches, or plants reaching the top. Mantises need to climb to find hunting and molting spots.
Hanging spots: The ceiling must have material the mantis can grip securely. Mesh is perfect.
Secure lid: Mantises are expert escape artists. The lid must fasten securely.
Easy access: You'll need to feed, mist, and clean regularly.

Substrate Choices

The substrate is the material covering the enclosure floor. It serves multiple purposes:

Absorbs waste
Helps maintain humidity
Provides cushioning if the mantis falls

Paper towels: The best choice for beginners. They're cheap, easy to replace, and allow you to monitor waste and health. Simply replace when soiled.

Coconut fiber: Natural-looking and good for humidity retention. Must be kept clean and replaced regularly to prevent mold.

Soil: Can work if sterilized, but risks introducing pests or mold. Not recommended for beginners.

Moss: Good for humidity-loving species but requires careful management to prevent mold.

Climbing Structures and Decor

Your mantis needs branches, sticks, or vines reaching the top of the enclosure. These provide:

Pathways to hunting positions
Resting spots at various heights
Alternative hanging locations for molting

Live or artificial plants add aesthetic appeal and provide additional climbing surfaces. If using live plants, ensure they're pesticide-free and suitable for the enclosure conditions.

Temperature Requirements: Keeping Your Mantis Warm Enough

As ectotherms (cold-blooded animals), mantises rely entirely on their environment for proper body temperature. Getting temperature right is essential for digestion, molting, and overall health.

Ideal Temperature Ranges by Species Type

Temperate species (Chinese, European, Carolina mantises): 68-80°F (20-27°C) during day, slight drop at night acceptable
Tropical species (Orchid, Ghost, Devil's Flower mantises): 75-85°F (24-29°C) with less fluctuation
Most common pet species: 70-78°F (21-26°C) works well

Providing Heat

If your home stays within the ideal range, you may not need supplemental heat. If temperatures drop too low, you'll need to provide warmth:

Heat mats: The safest option. Place them on the side or back of the enclosure, never underneath. Mantises can't detect dangerous heat from below and may overheat. Always use a thermostat to regulate temperature.

Ceramic heat emitters: Provide heat without light, preserving day-night cycles. Use with caution and always with a thermostat.

Room heating: Sometimes warming the entire room is simpler than heating individual enclosures.

Avoid: Heat rocks, direct sunlight (can overheat enclosure), and unregulated heat sources.

Temperature Monitoring

Use a digital thermometer with a probe to monitor temperatures at different spots in the enclosure. This ensures your mantis has both warm and cooler areas to choose from.

Signs of Temperature Stress

Too cold:

Lethargy, reduced activity
Loss of appetite
Slow, uncoordinated movements
Difficulty molting

Too hot:

Rapid, agitated movement
Attempting to escape
Pressing against cool surfaces
Refusing food despite warmth

Humidity and Hydration: Water Is Life

Mantises need water as much as they need food. Proper hydration is essential for survival and successful molting.

How Mantises Drink

Mantises don't drink from open water sources like bowls. Instead, they drink water droplets from leaves, mesh, and enclosure surfaces. In captivity, this means you must provide water through regular misting.

Humidity Requirements by Species

Temperate species: 40-60% humidity
Tropical species: 60-80% humidity
Most common pet species: 50-70% works well

Misting Technique

Proper misting is a skill that develops with practice:

Use room-temperature water (cold water shocks mantises)
Mist lightly once or twice daily, depending on species requirements
Ensure droplets form on leaves, mesh, and walls
Avoid soaking the substrate or creating standing water
Mist one side of the enclosure, leaving a drier area
Allow the enclosure to dry out partially between mistings
Increase misting frequency during molting periods

Humidity Monitoring

A hygrometer (humidity gauge) helps you track conditions accurately. Place it in the enclosure and check regularly. Adjust misting frequency based on readings.

Signs of Dehydration

Recognizing dehydration early saves lives:

Wrinkled or shrunken abdomen
Sunken eyes
Lethargy
Difficulty molting
Reduced appetite
Darkened coloration in some species

If you notice these signs, mist immediately and ensure water droplets are available.

Feeding Your Mantis: Nutrition for Growth and Health

Feeding is perhaps the most enjoyable part of mantis keeping. Watching your pet hunt is fascinating every time.

The Cardinal Rule: Live Prey Only

Mantises are obligate carnivores that only eat live, moving prey. They are triggered by movement and will completely ignore dead insects. This instinct is so strong that mantises will starve to death surrounded by dead prey rather than eat it.

Prey Size Guidelines

Proper prey size is critical for safety and nutrition:

General rule: Prey should be no larger than the mantis's abdomen
Too large: Risk of injury to mantis or prey escape
Too small: Mantis expends more energy hunting than it gains from eating
For nymphs: Prey should be approximately half their body size
For adults: Can handle prey up to their own body size

Appropriate Prey by Life Stage

L1-L3 nymphs (tiny):

Fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster or Drosophila hydei)
Aphids (if available)
Pinhead crickets (newly hatched)
Micro moths

L4-L6 nymphs (growing):

Small crickets (1/4 inch)
House flies
Small moths
Small cockroach nymphs
Waxworms (as treat, not staple)

L7-adults (full size):

Adult crickets
Bluebottle flies
Grasshoppers
Moths
Roaches (Dubia, etc.)
Occasional mealworms (hard exoskeleton can be difficult)

Feeding Frequency

How often to feed depends on age and condition:

L1-L3 nymphs: Daily or every other day
L4-L6 nymphs: Every 2-3 days
L7-subadult: Every 3-4 days
Adults: Every 3-5 days
Females producing oothecae: Every 2-3 days with larger prey
Pre-molt: May refuse food for 3-10 days before molting (normal)

Feeding Technique

Place 1-2 prey items in the enclosure
Watch your mantis hunt (if you have time)
Remove any uneaten prey after 24 hours
Never leave crickets or other potentially dangerous prey overnight with your mantis
For nymphs that can't find food, gently place prey near them using tweezers

Nutritional Supplementation

Captive mantises benefit from enhanced nutrition:

Gut-loading: Feed prey nutritious food (commercial gut-load diets, fresh vegetables, fruits) for 24-48 hours before offering to mantis
Calcium dusting: Lightly coat prey with calcium powder (without D3) every 2-3 feedings, especially for growing nymphs and egg-producing females
Variety: Different prey species provide different nutrients; rotate when possible

Foods to Avoid

Wild-caught insects from treated areas: May contain pesticides that will kill your mantis
Fireflies/lightning bugs: Toxic to mantises
Very hard-bodied beetles: Difficult to digest, may cause impaction
Dead insects: Mantises won't eat them
Human food: Mantises cannot digest plant matter or processed foods
Vertebrate prey: Unnecessary and potentially harmful in captivity

The Molting Process: The Most Critical Time

Molting is how mantises grow. They shed their old exoskeleton to reveal a larger, soft one underneath that hardens over time. This is the most dangerous period in a mantis's life.

Understanding the Molting Cycle

Molting occurs periodically as the mantis grows. The number of molts varies by species and sex, but most mantises undergo 5-10 molts before reaching adulthood.

Signs of Approaching Molt

Watch for these indicators that molting is near:

Reduced appetite: Mantis stops eating 1-3 days before molt
Less activity: Becomes more sedentary
Swollen wing buds: In nymphs, wing pads appear fuller
Duller coloration: Old exoskeleton looks faded
Seeking high position: Mantis climbs to top and hangs upside down
"J" shape: May hang in characteristic curved position

During the Molt

The actual molting process takes 30-60 minutes typically. During this time:

DO NOT DISTURB OR HANDLE the mantis for any reason
DO NOT FEED (remove any prey from enclosure)
Maintain humidity: Slightly higher humidity helps old skin separate
Do not interfere: Even if the molt looks difficult, let the mantis work through it

The mantis will split its old exoskeleton behind the head and slowly emerge, pulling its body and legs free. New wings (in adults) will expand and unfold.

After the Molt

Post-molt care is critical:

Do not feed for 24-48 hours: The new exoskeleton needs time to harden
Do not handle: The mantis is extremely vulnerable
Continue misting: Hydration helps hardening process
Leave old exoskeleton: The mantis may eat it for nutrients (this is normal)
Observe for problems: Check for deformed limbs, curled wings, or difficulty gripping

Common Molting Problems

Stuck in old skin: Usually caused by low humidity. If absolutely necessary, very gently use a damp paintbrush to help, but this is risky.
Deformed limbs: Improper expansion during molt. May correct at next molt in nymphs; permanent in adults.
Curled wings: In adults, indicates molting issues. Permanent.
Falling during molt: Often fatal. Ensure adequate hanging space.

Handling Your Mantis: When and How

Mantises are display animals, not pets that enjoy interaction. However, occasional handling is sometimes necessary.

When Handling Is Appropriate

Moving to a new enclosure
Removing from a dangerous location
Health examination
Assisted feeding for sick mantises
Breeding introductions

When NOT to Handle

During pre-molt or molting
Immediately after feeding
When the mantis is stressed
Simply for entertainment
When you're nervous (mantises sense vibrations)

Proper Handling Technique

Wash hands thoroughly to remove scents
Approach slowly from the side or below (not above)
Offer a perch—extend a finger in front of the mantis
Let it climb onto you voluntarily
Support the body but don't grip
Keep low to the ground in case of falls
Limit handling time to minutes, not hours
Return promptly to enclosure
Watch for stress—if the mantis tries to escape, return it immediately

If Your Mantis Escapes

Stay calm
Search nearby vegetation, curtains, high shelves
Look at human height and above
Move slowly to avoid startling
Offer a hand or stick for climbing
Return to enclosure and check security

Cleaning and Maintenance

Regular cleaning prevents disease and maintains a healthy environment.

Daily Tasks

Remove any uneaten prey
Spot-clean visible waste
Mist as needed
Check temperature and humidity
Observe mantis for health signs

Weekly Tasks

Replace paper towel substrate if using
Wipe down enclosure walls if soiled
Check for mold (especially in corners)
Clean water dish if using (though mantises don't drink from dishes, some keepers use them for humidity)

Monthly Tasks

Deep clean enclosure with mild soap and water
Replace natural substrates
Inspect and clean climbing structures
Check for any signs of pests or mold

Avoid using harsh chemicals, bleach, or strong cleaners near your mantis. They're extremely sensitive to chemicals.

Common Health Issues and Solutions

Recognizing problems early gives your mantis the best chance of recovery.

Refusing Food

Normal causes:

Pre-molt (3-10 days before molting)
Too cold (check temperature)
Recent large meal
Acclimation to new environment

Problematic causes:

Dehydration (check humidity, mist more)
Illness (rare)
Old age (in adults)
Stress (check handling, enclosure conditions)

Lethargy

Too cold: Warm the enclosure
Pre-molt: Normal, watch for other signs
Dehydration: Mist immediately
Illness: Isolate and monitor

Difficulty Gripping

Smooth surfaces: Add mesh or rougher climbing material
Weakness from starvation or dehydration: Address underlying cause
Molting issues: May resolve at next molt in nymphs
Injury: Provide easier perching, lower heights

Discoloration

Darkening before molt: Normal
Stress darkening: Check conditions
Fungal infection: White or black patches, isolate and improve ventilation
Injury: Localized discoloration from damage

Mold in Enclosure

Reduce misting
Increase ventilation
Remove affected substrate
Clean thoroughly
If on mantis (rare), isolate and consult experienced keeper

Breeding Mantises: Advanced Keeping

For those who want to take mantis keeping to the next level, breeding is a rewarding challenge.

Requirements for Breeding

One adult male and one adult female of same species
Both well-fed and healthy
Female should be well-nourished but not so heavy she's unreceptive
Larger enclosure with hiding spots for male
Knowledge of species-specific mating behavior

The Mating Process

Introduce male to female's enclosure (or neutral enclosure)
Observe carefully
Male will approach cautiously, may perform courtship display
Mating can last hours
Female may or may not cannibalize male
After mating, remove male if concerned about cannibalism

Ootheca Production

After successful mating, the female will produce an ootheca (egg case) within days to weeks. She'll attach it to a branch or enclosure wall. The ootheca contains 50-400 eggs, depending on species.

Ootheca Care

Leave in enclosure until hardens (24-48 hours)
Can be removed carefully after hardening
Store in cool conditions (not cold) if not hatching immediately
For temperate species, oothecae need winter chilling (cold period) before hatching
For tropical species, maintain warm, humid conditions

Hatching Nymphs

When nymphs hatch, they emerge as tiny versions of adults. At this point:

Separate nymphs immediately to prevent cannibalism
Provide tiny enclosures (deli cups with ventilation)
Feed fruit flies or other appropriately sized prey
Maintain higher humidity
Be prepared for high mortality in early instars

Seasonal Considerations for Mantis Keeping

Mantises in captivity experience different needs depending on the time of year.

Winter Care

May need supplemental heating
Shorter days may reduce activity
Oothecae from temperate species need cold period
Pet mantises continue normal care with heating

Summer Care

Watch for overheating in direct sun
More frequent misting in hot weather
Natural light cycles beneficial
Mating season for many species

Common Mistakes Beginners Make

Avoid these frequent errors to give your mantis the best life:

Mistake #1: Inadequate Enclosure Height
Too-short enclosures prevent successful molting. Always prioritize height.

Mistake #2: Poor Ventilation
Stagnant air promotes mold and respiratory issues. Ensure adequate airflow.

Mistake #3: Overhandling
Mantises don't enjoy handling. Limit to necessary occasions.

Mistake #4: Incorrect Prey Size
Prey too large can injure or kill mantises. When in doubt, go smaller.

Mistake #5: Neglecting Hydration
Misting isn't optional. Dehydration kills faster than starvation.

Mistake #6: Housing Multiple Mantises Together
Mantises are solitary and cannibalistic. House separately.

Mistake #7: Ignoring Pre-Molt Signs
Don't offer food to a mantis in pre-molt. Wait until after molting.

Mistake #8: Using Chemicals Near Enclosures
Mantises are extremely sensitive to pesticides, cleaners, and aerosols.

Mistake #9: Inadequate Research on Species
Different species have different needs. Research your specific mantis.

Mistake #10: Panicking During Molting
Molting looks stressful but is normal. Don't interfere unless absolutely necessary.

Conclusion: The Rewarding Journey of Mantis Keeping

Raising a praying mantis at home is a journey unlike any other pet ownership experience. In the span of less than a year, you'll witness:

A tiny nymph, smaller than a grain of rice, taking its first steps
The miracle of molting, as your mantis sheds its skin and emerges larger
The thrill of the hunt, as your mantis stalks and strikes with precision
The mystery of mating, if you choose to breed
The completion of the cycle, as a female produces an ootheca full of next-generation potential

Mantis keeping teaches patience, observation, and respect for the natural world. It connects us to 400 million years of evolutionary history and reminds us that even the smallest creatures have complex needs and remarkable adaptations.

The key to success is preparation and attention to detail. Provide the right enclosure, maintain proper temperature and humidity, feed appropriately, and respect the molting process. Do these things, and your mantis won't just survive—it will thrive, living its full lifespan and displaying all the behaviors that make these insects