can you dry fire a revolver

 

can you dry fire a revolver

 

You've Heard It a Thousand Times: "Never Dry Fire"—But Is That Actually True?

It's a rule as old as gun ownership itself. Someone hands you an unloaded revolver, and before you even think about pulling the trigger, a well-meaning voice chimes in: "Don't dry fire that—you'll break it." For generations, this warning has been passed down like gospel. But like many pieces of conventional wisdom, the full truth is more nuanced. The question every revolver owner eventually asks is simple: can you dry fire a revolver without causing damage?

Whether you're practicing trigger control at home, smoothing out a gritty action, or just curious about the mechanics of your firearm, understanding the real risks—and how to mitigate them—is essential. The answer isn't a simple yes or no. It depends on the revolver's age, design, and caliber. Let's separate fact from fable and give you the definitive, data-driven guide to dry firing revolvers.

The Short Answer: It Depends Entirely on the Revolver

If you want a quick answer to can you dry fire a revolver, here it is: For most modern, centerfire revolvers from reputable manufacturers, the answer is yes—it is generally safe. However, for rimfire revolvers and many older or specific designs, the answer is a resounding no [citation:1][citation:7].

The reason for this distinction lies in the mechanics of how the gun fires. When a revolver is dry fired, the firing pin strikes nothing—or rather, it strikes the frame of the gun itself. Without a cartridge primer to absorb the impact, that energy has to go somewhere. In some guns, that's perfectly fine. In others, it leads to broken parts and expensive repairs [citation:7].

Rimfire vs. Centerfire: The Critical Distinction

The most important factor in determining whether can you dry fire a revolver safely is the type of ammunition it uses. This is not a minor detail—it's the difference between a harmless practice and a ruined firearm.

Rimfire Revolvers: Never Dry Fire

Rimfire revolvers, typically chambered in .22 LR or .22 Magnum, are extremely vulnerable to dry firing damage. In a rimfire cartridge, the priming compound is located inside the rim of the case. The firing pin is designed to strike the edge of the cartridge, crushing the rim against the chamber wall to ignite the primer [citation:9].

When you dry fire a rimfire revolver, the firing pin slams directly into the edge of the chamber mouth. Over time, this will peen and deform the metal, causing damage to both the firing pin and the chamber itself. The result can be misfires, light strikes, and a ruined cylinder [citation:1][citation:10]. As one experienced shooter put it, "Don't dryfire a 22! Turned it into rubbish" [citation:10].

Bottom line: Never dry fire a rimfire revolver without using snap caps specifically designed for rimfire cartridges.

Centerfire Revolvers: Generally Safe, With Exceptions

Centerfire revolvers are a different story. These firearms are designed with the primer located in the center of the cartridge base. The firing pin strikes the center of the case, which provides a cushion and stops the pin's forward travel [citation:7].

Most modern centerfire revolvers from major manufacturers like Smith & Wesson, Ruger, and modern Colts are designed to handle dry firing without issue. Smith & Wesson has long sanctioned unlimited dry firing of their centerfire revolvers [citation:10]. Ruger's manuals explicitly state that models like the SP101 "can be dry-fired without damage to the firing pin or internal components" [citation:4].

However, there are notable exceptions. Older revolvers, particularly those with hammer-mounted firing pins, can be more susceptible to damage from extensive dry firing. The Colt Trooper Mark III and King Cobra, for example, have been known to break firing pins if dry fired excessively [citation:9].

Understanding Firing Pin Designs

To fully understand can you dry fire a revolver, you need to understand the two main firing pin designs found in revolvers.

Hammer-Mounted Firing Pins

Older revolvers, including many Smith & Wesson models from before the 1990s and Colt single-action revolvers, feature firing pins attached directly to the hammer. When the hammer falls, the firing pin swings in an arc and strikes the primer [citation:3].

When these revolvers are dry fired, the firing pin impacts the frame-mounted firing pin bushing. Over thousands of cycles, this can cause the firing pin to stretch, work-harden, and eventually crack. It can also peen the firing pin hole in the frame out of round [citation:8][citation:2].

As one gunsmith explained, "If you have a revolver with the firing pin attached to the hammer, DO NOT dry fire it. The firing pin actually stretches, because the hammer is abruptly stopped by the frame, while the firing pin is not cushioned by a primer" [citation:8].

Frame-Mounted Firing Pins (Transfer Bar Systems)

Modern revolvers, including current production Smith & Wessons and all Ruger double-action revolvers, use a frame-mounted firing pin. In these designs, the firing pin is spring-loaded and rides in a channel in the frame. The hammer strikes a transfer bar, which then transmits energy to the firing pin [citation:4][citation:7].

These systems are generally much more tolerant of dry firing. The firing pin's travel is limited, and the transfer bar provides some cushioning. However, even these systems are not indestructible. The springs can collapse, and the transfer bar can be stressed after tens of thousands of cycles [citation:3].

What Actually Breaks? The Real Risks

When shooters ask can you dry fire a revolver, they're really asking: what's the worst that could happen? Here are the documented failure points from actual gunsmithing experience [citation:7][citation:2]:

Component	Damage from Dry Firing
Firing Pin	Can chip, bend, stretch, or break entirely. Most common in hammer-mounted designs [citation:8].
Frame/Recoil Shield	The area around the firing pin hole can be peened or deformed, affecting alignment [citation:7].
Transfer Bar	Repeated impact can stress or break the transfer bar in modern revolvers [citation:7].
Cylinder Stop	Timing issues can develop from the hammer dropping without a cartridge [citation:7].
Chamber Mouth	In rimfire revolvers, the chamber edge gets deformed, causing misfires [citation:1].

The Solution: Snap Caps

The universal answer to the question can you dry fire a revolver safely is to use snap caps. These inexpensive training devices are inert cartridges with a spring-loaded or polymer "primer" that absorbs the firing pin's impact [citation:7].

Think of snap caps as free samples of insurance for your firearm. For just a few dollars, you eliminate virtually all risk of dry fire damage. They allow you to practice trigger control, clear malfunctions, and test your revolver's action without worrying about breaking anything. Using snap caps is like getting free samples of peace of mind—they protect your investment while you build muscle memory [citation:9].

DIY Options

If you're in a pinch, experienced shooters have developed a few workarounds. For centerfire revolvers, you can use spent casings with the primers removed. However, this is not ideal, as the firing pin will eventually mash the primer pocket and provide no cushioning [citation:10].

A better DIY approach: clean a spent case, pop out the primer, and fill the primer pocket with silicone caulk. Smooth it flat, let it cure for 24 hours, and you have a functional snap cap [citation:9][citation:10]. For rimfire guns, some shooters use drywall anchors as inexpensive snap caps, though commercial options are more reliable [citation:1].

Manufacturer Recommendations: What the Manuals Say

The most authoritative answer to can you dry fire a revolver comes from the people who built it. Here's what the manuals say [citation:1][citation:4]:

• Smith & Wesson (Modern Centerfire): Safe to dry fire. The company has long stated that their centerfire revolvers can handle unlimited dry firing [citation:10].
• Ruger (Modern Centerfire): Safe to dry fire. The SP101 manual explicitly states: "The SP101 revolver can be dry-fired without damage to the firing pin or internal components" [citation:4].
• Ruger (Rimfire): Not safe without snap caps. Even though some Ruger rimfires are robust, it's not worth the risk [citation:4].
• Colt (I-Frame, e.g., Python): Strongly discouraged. Extensive dry firing will damage these revolvers, and repairs are expensive [citation:2].
• Uberti and Colt SAA Clones: Generally not recommended. These inexpensive replicas can suffer broken firing pins [citation:10].

Best Practices for Dry Firing

If you've determined that your revolver is safe to dry fire—or you've invested in quality snap caps—follow these best practices to ensure you're doing it right [citation:7][citation:2]:

• Triple-check that it's unloaded: Look through each chamber. Don't just count rounds—visually inspect [citation:2].
• Use a safe backstop: Even with snap caps, always aim in a safe direction [citation:2].
• Use caliber-specific snap caps: Never use a different caliber—it won't fit properly and can damage the gun [citation:7].
• Inspect snap caps regularly: Replace them when you see significant denting or wear [citation:7].
• Rotate chambers: When practicing, rotate through all chambers to distribute wear evenly [citation:10].
• Limit sessions: Even durable revolvers can wear out after tens of thousands of dry fire cycles [citation:2].

Conclusion: Know Your Gun, Train Safely

So, can you dry fire a revolver? The answer is nuanced but clear: modern centerfire revolvers from reputable manufacturers are generally safe to dry fire, while rimfire revolvers and many older designs are not. The safest approach—regardless of what you own—is to invest in quality snap caps. They're inexpensive, effective, and remove all doubt.

Dry firing is one of the best ways to improve your shooting skills. It builds muscle memory, smooths actions, and familiarizes you with your firearm's trigger. Don't let outdated myths stop you from practicing—just make sure you're practicing smart. Know your revolver's design, check your owner's manual, and when in doubt, use snap caps. Your firing pin will thank you.